Discover the soaring towers of Angkor Wat, the crumbling vine-covered ruins of Ta Prohm and marvel at the intricate bas-reliefs of Banteay Srei and at Beng Melea. Cycle through villages on the riverbank along the Mekong River, meet friendly locals at the roadside or cruise the river. Stroll the French boulevards of Phnom Penh, discover the Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda, and perhaps reflect on Cambodia's 'killing fields' as you visit Choeung Ek and Tuol Sleng. Venture upstream to Battambang with its faded colonial architecture, discover the hill tribes around Banlung; later unwind on the pristine beaches at Sihanoukville and after a swim dine on freshly grilled seafood.

Highlights

Cambodia's temples and monuments are best visited in the early morning or late afternoon when the light is kind and the shadows deeper - allowing for a fuller appreciation of the wonderful bas-reliefs.

Angkor Wat-One of Asia's most memorable sights. Consecrated around 1150 AD to the Hindu God Vishnu, the temple's five majestic, corncob-shaped towers reflect the pinnacle of Khmer architecture. If possible, try to explore the temple's stunning bas-relief galleries in the fashion that the Cambodian god-kings designed them - anti-clockwise.

Ta Prohm-Clamber over collapsed giant stones and duck through caved-in galleries. Wander round the huge kapok trees with their massive roots clinging to walls, framing doorways and prising apart massive stones.

Angkor Thom-Ride an elephant to the stone causeway, then walk across the wide moat and discover the Bayon's 54 towers with more than 200 massive carved faces, galleries of bas-reliefs and numerous Khmer monuments. Here, the bas-reliefs are to be viewed clockwise.

Banteay Srei-Stoll along stone walkways between numerous pools to the centerpiece of this ancient spa, a rose-pink temple. One of the most elaborately decorated of all Angkor's monuments: the stone steps leading to the temple are carved in the shape of coiled snakes, while each of the ceremonial water spouts (to feed the pools) take the form of a human or animal head. Visit in the early morning or late afternoon and you may be treated to local musicians serenading you with classical Khmer music.

Kbal Spean-In the jungle of the Kulen Mountains you can discover shapes of Hindu gods carved into the bedrock of the river. It's easy to access: climb up a jungle path and then wade downstream. Cool off with a swim or shower under the nearby waterfall.

Sihanoukville-Relax in Cambodia's liveliest resort, with tropical beaches, plentiful seafood and busy nightlife. If you tire of the beach, visit the pretty waterfalls north of town or Ream National Park.

Ream National Park-Covering 210km, the park offers stunning coastal scenery, mangrove swamps, forest and pretty offshore islands. Take a river trip to spot fishing eagles, milky and adjutant storks and kingfishers. Look out for deer, wild pigs, monkeys in the forest, and if you're lucky, the elusive fishing cat.

Tonle Sap Lake-Take a cruise on this freshwater lake, a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve and home to hundreds of floating villages and abundant birdlife. From Prek Toal, hire a boat and spot a wide range of water birds, including three endangered species - the greater adjutant stork, the spot-billed pelican and the white-winged duck.

Bonn Om Tuk-Watch one of Cambodia's most colourful festivals as boat crews from all over Cambodia compete in brightly painted longboats, some up to 30m in length and crewed by up to 60 rowers - sitting, standing and kneeling in pairs. Held over three days in either October or November on the Tonle Sap Lake.

Cruise the Mekong-Cruise the river through Phnom Penh and enjoy the views as the sun sinks behind the Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda.

Phnom Penh-Despite its often violent past, Cambodia's capital retains its charm, with crumbling colonial architecture, bustling street side cafes and a friendly riverfront. Don't miss visiting the stunning Silver Pagoda, one of the few places in Cambodia where the Khmer Rouge preserved Khmer artifacts. Also visit Wat Ounalom, Wat Phnom and Wat Moha Montrei.

Irrawaddy dolphins-Take a river cruise around Kampie and north of Stung Treng near the border with Laos and you may spot a pod of Irrawaddy dolphins. Unlike their sea-going cousins, these dolphins have no beak and seldom leap out of the water, only playing on the water's surface.

Apsara dance-Don't miss the sight of this ancient Khmer dance at cultural performances usually held in hotels and restaurants in Phnom Penh and Siem Reap. Sewn into glittering silk tunics, sequined tops and elaborate golden headdresses, dancers execute delicate movements of cultural symbolism. Visit the School of Fine Arts in Phnom Penh and catch a new generation of dancers in training.

Cambodian cuisine-The national cuisine is delicately flavoured with herbs such as lemon grass and coriander. Try a soup called sumlar sngaow jerooek, made from either chicken or fish and cooked with onion, lemon and chives. Or sample smoky charcoal-grilled chicken, with a salad garnish and a sweet chili sauce, or fish served with a dip of grated green mango, chili, garlic and fish sauce.

Best time to go

The best time to travel is during the dry season in December and January. Expect sunny days and an average temperature of 27C. From February, temperatures start to rise, reaching around 40C in April. The wet season between May and October is a good time to visit Angkor and other monuments as the moats and pools are full of water and the jungle is lush. The average temperature at this time is 31C.

Shopping

Best buys include the krama, a checked scarf made of cotton or silk, unique to Cambodia; hand woven silk scarves, bags and purses or lengths of material; silver boxes - many in the shape of animals and used in ceremonies or to hold betel leaves. Try the Central Market in Phnom Penh for clothes, gifts and gems. Look out for shops selling handicrafts to raise money for disadvantaged Cambodians.