Carnival takes place in February, the hottest month in Rio and officially starts on a Saturday (some 40 days before Easter) and finishes on Fat Tuesday before the beginning of Lent on Ash Wednesday (after which one is supposed to abstain from all bodily pleasures).

However, there are numerous all-night and all-day parties that take place before, during and after Carnival. It’s free and everybody’s welcome to participate. So party-on while at the same time learning about Brazil’s fascinating customs – something that’s important to Brazilians, as they regard Carnival as a true manifestation of their rich culture.

Where? Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

When? February or March – from the first Friday of Carnival weekend to Shrove Tuesday.

How Long? Five days. The 2008 Carnival officially starts on Friday 20 February and ends on Tuesday 24 February.

 
Best view of parades? The best sectors in the Sambodromo are in the middle or slightly towards the end of the runway, such as sectors 5, 7, 9 and 11. It’s worth paying a little more to get a better view. Sector 7 is probably the best – most Carnival judges are located at this height of the Avenue. If you can afford it, go for the front boxes for more comfortable seating, space and better views.

When does the show start? The parade starts at 9pm but the atmosphere typically starts to peak between 10pm and 11pm.

Highlights

The Rio Samba Parade is not a street happening where people can move about as they please. Instead, it is a highly orchestrated show with a spectacular parade down the main avenue of the Sambodromo, built especially for this event. Parades occur every day, with the most important and not-to-be-missed on Carnival Sunday and Monday.

Samba Schools in the Special Group This is the highlight of Rio Carnival. The must-see show and the schools belonging to this group are sumptuously dressed. Watch six of the best 12 Samba schools parade on both Sunday and Monday. Doors open at 5pm, the opening ceremony starts at 8pm and parades start at 9pm.

Champions Parade The six best samba schools of the Special Group, from Sunday and Monday, parade in all their splendour once more, with fireworks. This parade on the following Saturday (9 Feb) is much quieter and less expensive to watch than the principal competition days on Sunday and Monday. The parade starts at 9pm and is regarded as the second-best parade.

Official Costume Competition Get the chance to see the best costumes of the principal samba schools before the Samba Parade. The competition is held in the Hotel Gloria, one of the smartest hotels in Rio. Expect huge and dazzling costumes that represent historical characters or any chosen theme, according to the imagination of the men, women and drag queens who participate in the event. You don’t need to wear a costume, you can just go and see the competition at Hotel Gloria on Saturday 2 February. Doors open at 6.30pm, the competition starts at 7pm and finishes around 10:30pm. Admission is R$50.00 (approximately A$30).

Carnival balls – Don’t miss parting at a Carnival ball. Tickets to most balls cost around R$30 to R$50 (A$20 to A$30) and are available on the door. Exceptions are the two most famous balls in the luxury Copacabana Palace (luxury costume or black tie/evening dress is required) and the Gloria Hotel. Other exciting balls are in Rio Scala and Clube dos Caiçaras, and the Hard Rock Cafe’s Kid’s Folia also organise costume balls for adults and children. Costumes are not mandatory, with the exception of a few balls. Expect loud live music and, as you’d expect, samba ruling the dance floor.

Samba nights in the schools – For some serious fun check out a Rio samba school; watch the crowd or dance yourself while learning samba lyrics that will be sung during that school’s parade. You can go to the party of any school. Two of the best known schools, Mangueira and Salgueiro, are located a short cab ride from the South End (Zona Sul). A note of warning – they are in very poor areas, often on the borders of the slums, so don’t be flashy or carry anything valuable with you. However, do go! Plan to arrive anytime after 11 pm. Go by taxi (for safety reasons). There will also be plenty of taxis outside when you are ready to leave. Expect to pay an entrance fee of between R$5 and R$30. (A$3 to A$30).

Street bands – During Carnival bands play music in the streets with partygoers joining in, drinking and dancing away. It’s free – simply turn up and join in. The biggest band procession takes place in Avenida Rio Branco, downtown (centro) – this is where the merry-making is at its wildest and you can watch the greatest variety of street bands perform from Saturday to Tuesday.

Street parties – From Carnival Saturday to Tuesday, open-air dances take place throughout the city. The biggest and most organised one is on Cinelândia Square. Apart from organised street dances, people also gather outside little corner bars, boozing away and having fun in the street. The biggest crowds gather just outside the Sambodromo on Samba Parade days.

Climate during Carnival

The average temperature in summer is around 29°C.

Shopping

Be sure to check out the Museu do Índio, Artíndia, for a variety of indigenous handicrafts – masks, musical instruments, baskets and weapons. Also visit the Hippie Fair (also known as Feria de Arte de Ipanema) in Ipanema, for artwork, jewellery, handicrafts and leather goods.

Did you know?

The roots of Carnival trace back to the ancient Romans and Greeks who celebrated the rites of spring when people annually gave thanks by throwing parties, wearing masks and dancing in the streets. The practice of holding balls and masquerade parties was imported by the city’s bourgeoisie from Paris. However, in Brazil, the traditions soon became different. Over time, they acquired unique elements deriving from African and Amerindian cultures.

Don’t miss

Take the cable car up to one of the new Seven Wonders of the World, the Cristo Redentor (Christ the Redeemer) statue on top of the Corcovado (Hunchback) peak, providing the focal point for the Rio skyline. You can hardly miss Copacabana and Ipanema beaches, but there are numerous others as well. Visit the Museu do Índio, one of the nation’s most important Indian heritage museums, containing some 14,000 objects made by Brazilian Indians.